"Hat of the Week" Promotion and Blog Entry

I wanted to offer a sale on some of my hats, but I wanted to do something a little bit more fun and interesting than just discounting everything for a day or a week.

Starting now, there will be a different "Hat of the Week" each week. Every Monday, a new hat will be revealed, discounted between 25% and 50% for one week only. (I am not a fan of 5% or 10% off sales. That's not much in my opinion.) And no coupon code is needed.

Summer Seagrass Cloche

Pink Asymmetrical Cloche

For the first round of this special, I decided to take suggestions for what should be the first. I decided to pick two: the Summer Seagrass Cloche and the Pink Asymmetrical Cloche. And the first-round discount is 30% for each hat.

The other thing I'm going to do with the "Hat of the Week" is talk a little about it — the creative inspiration, the materials, the process, whatever. Good motivation for me to blog more.

Summer Seagrass Cloche

I call this the "perfect" cloche for summer, and it really is. Seagrass has an airy, open weave, so it's really lightweight. And I think seagrass is softer and less scratchy than many other types of straw.

This was blocked by hand over a basic cloche shape, but the front of the brim was turned up and shaped by hand.

Here's something you may not know if you don't make hats: The blocking/shaping — i.e. the majority of what makes a hat a hat — is often the quick and easy part! Other steps, such as binding the brim edge with ribbon, where every stitch is done by hand, is the long and tedious work. When I look at this hat, I remember when I was making it just in advance of a runway fashion show. It was almost done, so I thought it would be ready in time. Hardly! Those last steps take the longest. A big lesson for me as a milliner has been to know that things always take longer than expected.

The end result is worth it, I think. And the bow is probably the most perfectly constructed one I've yet made. The flower sequins and bright orange ribbon are my vision of summer.

Pink Asymmetrical Cloche

As an artist — and I know I'm not alone in this — I struggle with figuring out what my style, my vision and my point of view are. And is it even necessary to have a signature style? Well, that's some artistic angst for another post. 

 What I'm trying to say is that this hat is one of the closest to being a Silverhill Creative Millinery signature. It has an asymmetrical style. And it has a cockade. Both are themes you'll see a lot. Plus a bead accent. If I'm not doing full-on bead embroidery, I often like to use at least one bead. (Embroidery, vintage trims and swirls are also frequent components.)

In the description of this hat, I've noted that the ends of the ribbon have been intentionally left raw (unless the buyer prefers them sealed) so that they'll naturally fray over time to develop a vintage-y look.

That vintage aesthetic is the driving force behind my work as a milliner. I can admire the artistry and architectural feats behind crazy couture millinery. But the styles that really inspire me are simply the hats that women wore in their everyday lives 70, 80 or 90 years ago. The cloche is, of course, a classic 1920s shape. And ribbon cockades or rosettes have been used on hats for many years and through many styles.

For historical inspiration, I sometimes look to hat illustrations/ads or vintage hats on Pinterest.

This isn't meant to be a strict period reproduction. It is a "vintage inspired" style. And it's still an everyday style. No fancy outfit required. It can be worn with jeans. (Though it wouldn't say no to being paired with a 1920s-style dress.)

If you have any questions about the process or these "Hat(s) of the Week," just ask, and I'll be happy to answer.

Etsy Challenges

Several weeks ago, I had the honor of participating in an online chat with the Academy of Handmade and two other milliners: When Your Business Doesn't "Fit" Etsy.

According to Etsy, is this a "bucket hat"
or a "formal hat"?

This was before Etsy made changes to categories, so some of our comments and links are out-dated now. But I think the main points are still relevant. Emily Moe posted her own blog piece today about her continuing thoughts on the subject, and I share the same views.

First and foremost, milliners — and hat-lovers — whether on Etsy or elsewhere have the same primary challenge: to promote hat-wearing as a way of life. To "bring back the hat." Show people that it's socially acceptable to wear hats. Help people who want to wear hats get over their fears.

The second challenge has more to do with Etsy, and that is how to stand out in a crowded marketplace. Sure, the hat-making field is not as over-saturated as the jewelry-making field. But if shoppers look for hats on Etsy, they find at least 10 times as many knitted and crocheted beanies as they do "real" millinery hats. And that doesn't really have anything to do with quality. I've seen gorgeous crocheted hats and disgustingly amateurish felt hats. Then there are the embellishers: people who buy a cheap, mass-produced hat and glue gears (steampunk!) or feathers or ribbon onto it and voilá! — it's all of a sudden "handmade."

The solution to the Etsy problem seems simple. But how to implement it and make it successful, that's the challenge.

Anyhow, my dream, my ideal alternative marketplace website would be:

• 100% Handmade
• Fashion and Accessories 
• Juried
• Successful

Handmade means no resellers, no supplies, no vintage and no assemblages. I think it could cut down on the clutter and overwhelming number of items by being limited to fashion and accessories. There's more than enough clothing, hats, shoes, bags, jewelry, etc. — and enough interest in them — to sustain a full site without also selling coffee mugs, stamped spoons and stationery.

As for the juried requirement, in my dream world that doesn't just weed out poorly made items. Do a search for "wrap bracelet" or "beaded bracelet" on Etsy. Then see how many of them — even ones that are nicely made and well-photographed — look exactly like one another. Or explore how much of Etsy "fashion" is "handmade" by someone with a stock of Hanes t-shirts and an embroidery machine.

And then there's "successful." One of the best things about Etsy — and the reason why I stay — is that it is successful, even if I am not. I know of other sellers who have tried other online selling venues, without getting even a fraction of the views as they get on Etsy. So that's the real trick. Creating an alternative that doesn't just launch, live and die unnoticed.

So that brings me full circle, whether I'm talking about Etsy, another online marketplace, Facebook posts, Instagram, Twitter, or my hats in the real world. ... How do I market myself? How do I get my work seen? How do I grow my business?

I'm starting to take some steps, but it can be intimidating and overwhelming. One of the first things on my list is to improve my display/photos.

Navy blue fedora with cockade

Until next time ... wear a hat!

A Different Kind of New Year's Post

I'm not one to make resolutions for the new year. I tried, kind of, in 2014 to pay down debt — and then that plan goes by the wayside with car repairs, car replacement, back storm door replacement, etc. Plus, when I quit smoking for good, the date was June 20. So I know the important changes can come at any time and do come when we are ready to make them.

I had transitioned over to making goals instead of resolutions, specific things I wanted to accomplish in the year ahead. But after a couple years of procrastinating and not accomplishing my goals, I've decided against that route, too.

The new year is really a great time for reflection: What went well last year, and why? What didn't go well? What can I do to improve my happiness and my chances of success?

So, I was all ready to write a New Year's post about those things. And then, two things happened:

1. I got sick. Not sick. A cold. The kind that just makes you feel whiny. Not a serious illness that demands a fighting spirit; a moderate inconvenience that makes you want to stay in bed. It makes broad reflections and long-term plans kind of tricky. At the moment, my biggest focus is that I want this darn head cold to go away. Yes, I do realize how fortunate this makes me. But it's hard for me to go roaring into 2015 with a can-do spirit when I feel headachy, tired and congested. My "start" of 2015 might have to wait a week.

2. I found out that Australian milliner Greer McDonald passed away. (I previously devoted part of a blog entry to her in "Camaraderie, not competition".) I knew that she had been ill, though I don't know any details of what her illness was. She was quite a bit older than I am, but I felt like we were at somewhat similar points on our journeys as milliners. Greer and I interacted on Twitter, Etsy's Milliners of Etsy team, our respective Facebook pages, Instagram, and www.hatacademy.com. I didn't know her well, but in every time we "talked," I adored her. She was enthusiastic about hats and a genuinely nice person. We cheered each other on a couple years ago as we each neared 100 Facebook "likes." I met the milestone first, but then she far surpassed me.

And she was a talented and imaginative milliner. It seemed like she was always experimenting with new techniques and new materials instead of just sticking with the things she had mastered.

Her Facebook page no longer exists. And her Etsy shop had been put on hiatus a while ago (which makes the listings invisible for the most part). But you can still view several of her hats on her Pinterest page: Greer McDonald Millinery. [EDIT: Her Pinterest account is now down, too, sadly.] Here's one of hers I had pinned to my "Hats I Like" board:



I'll put forward my philosophies and plans for 2015 later. In the meantime, I could do worse than follow the example set by Greer — creating with joy, being kind and trying new styles and techniques.

Buying Priorities

A couple comments recently have made me think about the idea of priorities when it comes to buying things.

I was talking with my mom today, and she mentioned a certain pair of boots that she wanted — but she was going to have to pass because they were $270. "They're a brand called Pikolinos. I don't know if you've ever heard of them," Mom said. "Um, I have actually. I have a pair," I admitted. "I bought them 10? 12? years ago. And I wear them all the time."

I paid less than $270 for mine because I bought them so long ago. But I did spend $200+ per pair for two pairs of La Canadienne boots maybe 5 years ago. One pair has since been re-soled. But I still get great use out of both pairs.

Contrast that with the time I was looking at a $55 pair of shoes. "How long will this brand last?" I asked the store owner. "Oh, you should get a full season out of those!" she said — as though getting a single year out of a pair of shoes is longevity. I immediately took a pass.

If you can't afford expensive shoes — and I recognize that even $55 is expensive for many people — I'm not saying you should buy them anyway. (Don't worry, Mom! I'm not questioning your priorities.)  But a lot of times, you get what you pay for.

The other comment (from some weeks ago) was this: "Kristin, you make beautiful hats ... but nobody I know can afford them."

Yes, my hats are expensive in the sense that they can be over $100. Yes, my hats are expensive in the sense that they are priced higher than a mass-produced hat bought at Macy's. And, yes, there are people who truly cannot afford them. But I guarantee that the same person who said she doesn't know anybody who can afford them does know people who spend $100+ on jeans or shoes. So why not spend that money on hats?

It's all about priorities. I know that hats are considered more of a fun, optional accessory. Personally, I've never spent more than $100 on a pair of jeans. I have spent more than $100 on a hat, though.

This post isn't about trying to say people should buy my hats. I want my customers to want my hats; I want my customers to love my hats. I don't want my customers to resent me or think "Ugh, why did I spend money on this?"

So buy, or don't buy, things as you see fit. It's your life. It's your money. It's not for me to judge how you spend it. You get to set the priorities.

For my part, I prioritize spending more on something I know will last for a long time and that I will continue to enjoy.

And a hat made using traditional millinery techniques — as opposed to a mass-produced hat — is meant to be something that will last for years to come. (All the delightful reasons why will be coming in a future blog post.)

Etsy, Hats and ... Toy Campfires?

Previously, I shared Emily Moe's blog post The Milliners vs. Etsy. Her prior post Milliners, Etsy and the Category Problem is also worth reading.

So I wanted to offer my thoughts ...

I have kind of a love-hate relationship with Etsy, and I'm sure that's true of anyone who sells there.
What I love about Etsy is that it's easy to use. They charge a listing fee and a percentage of each sale. As a person who isn't selling in anything close to a high volume, it is far cheaper for me to have Etsy be my store than to have a dedicated web site and shopping cart. And even when Etsy's categories fail milliners, there are times when I do get miraculously found.

The trouble is that getting found is hard. Part of that is the category problem; part of it is the sheer volume of items on Etsy, most of which are lousy.

Oh, categories. Emily pointed out how "Accessories > Hat" turns up a huge amount of knit or crocheted beanies. Here's the thing, though: yarn artists have their own dedicated categories! And those categories not only break down to hat, but also the sub-categories of hats (such as "baby" or "beanie"). Milliners have nowhere else to go but "Accessories > Hat." Knitters can file their items under "Knitting > Hat" or "Knitting > Accessories > Hat." Same goes for crochet.

by MoeSewCoMillinery

by ChapeauEgoiste

by SilverhillCreative

The bigger problem is that there's no policing of categories even where those distinctions do exist. Out of curiosity, I clicked to see what shows up when I click through to "Accessories > Hat > Cloche." Unsurprisingly, several crocheted beanies are called cloches. What did surprise me is seeing on the first page of results a PDF pattern for a crocheted cowl. A scarf. Not a hat. Not even close to being a cloche! (And a pattern, to boot, not even a finished item.)

But clicking "report this item to Etsy" is no help. The only options you are allowed are if an item is not handmade, not vintage or not a supply (the three main categories of Etsy) or if it is prohibited or mature content. There's no recourse for category abuse. As an aside, I've seen many sellers write about how Etsy does not do much to police manufactured goods posing as handmade (or vintage). After all, Etsy is still making money off of them.

The problem is that there is so much junk on Etsy. There are some amazingly beautiful finds on Etsy. I have bought some fabulous vintage trims there. And I have admired the work of other milliners and handmade artists who are actually artists. But Etsy adding new categories or fixing SEO* isn't really going to help.

Take away all the crocheted hats, knit hats, surgical scrub caps and vintage hats, and you can still end up with "handmade" hats where the seller bought a manufactured hat base and glued feathers or flowers or ribbon onto it. Add categories for fedoras or any other millinery terms, and you will still have mass-produced hats. You will still have beanies or scarves intentionally mislabeled in order to hijack the results.

Etsy is a great place to host a shop. It's a great way to have an online store without investing in a dedicated web site and shopping cart, so it's perfect for small sellers. It is not, however a place to get discovered. I simply can't expect to ever be found there.

The ideal would be an alternative to Etsy that is juried. No mass-produced goods. No sellers lying about what their item is to gain views. No beanies featuring cartoon characters. (I'm sure that 99% of Etsy sellers do not have a license for their Ninja Turtles or Minion "handmade" items.) That's not to say that knit/crochet should be banned. I would be happy to have my hats appear along side quality knit/crochet.

by esozaJewelry

by lilithist

The good knit/crochet hat makers are getting lost, too, among hats that look like something you stuffed under your bed and forgot about after your grandma gave it to you for Christmas.

by MaddyRoseCottage

*And the search, by the way, is definitely broken. I searched for "felt" in the accessories/hat category ... and some of the results were for felt toys. (Of the two I noted, one was a slug and one was a campfire. Weird. But oddly cute.) I assumed that maybe the sellers used the word "hat" in title or tags to make their items stand out in a category where they did not belong. Nope. Etsy just decided, through whatever bizarre algorithm they use, to return a toy campfire to someone searching for hats.

Blog Link

I'm going to tackle my own thoughts on the subject in a separate post. In the meantime, I wanted to share a fellow hat-maker's blog post:

The Milliners vs. Etsy

It's interesting, and it features pretty pictures of several milliners' hats.

Confessions of a procrastinating blogger...

I hate it when I visit a blog only to find out it hasn't been updated in months (or years!). Kind of like ... oh.

Yes, it has been several months since I've blogged. And it hasn't been for lack of things to say. I enjoy writing, and I have some posts in the back of my head waiting to get out onto the computer screen. I just ... haven't written. And then, of course, I get into a vicious circle where I feel like I can't write a new blog post at 3 a.m. or without addressing my absence first. So this, I guess, is that thoroughly unexciting post.

I've been working away on hats (and theatre), not blogging.

More posts will be coming. Until then, you can check out Silverhill Creative Millinery hats on Pinterest or the Silverhill Creative Millinery etsy shop.